鄂伦春族狍皮制作工艺 | Oroqen Roe Deer Skin Processing Craft

非遗级别:国家级 Intangible cultural heritage level: National

批准时间:2008年6月14日 Approval date: June 14th, 2021

申报地区:黑龙江省黑河市 Declaration area: Heihe City, Heilongjiang Province

遗产类别:传统技艺 Category: Traditional Art

鄂伦春族 The Oroqen Nationality

生活在大兴安岭山林地区的鄂伦春族,是中国北方游猎民族,也是我国东北地区人口最少的民族之一。“鄂伦春”是民族语言自称,意为“山岭上的人”,或“有驯鹿的人”。

The Oroqen, who live in the mountain and forest region of the Greater Khingan area, is a hunting nationality in northern China. Additionally, it is also one of the ethnic groups with the smallest population in northeast China. In their native language, “Oroqen” means “people on the mountains”, or “people who have reindeer”.

鄂伦春民族世代生活在大兴安岭的山林中,过着游猎生活。与山林为伴,与野兽为邻,创造和保留了丰富多彩的非物质文化遗产。

The Oroqen people have been living in the mountains and forests in the Greater Khingan area for generations, leading a hunting life. With the forests as companions and wild animals as neighbors, they has created and preserved rich and colorful intangible cultural heritage.

历史渊源 Historical Originnd

鄂伦春族狍皮制作技艺就是鄂伦春民族在特定的自然地理条件下产生的独特文化表现形式,是鄂伦春族人以兽肉为食、兽皮为衣的狩猎生产生活方式的反映。

The Oroqen roe deer skin processing craft is a unique cultural expression form produced by the Oroqen nationality under specific natural and geographical conditions. It is also a reflection of the Oroqen’s hunting lifestyle, which is based on animal meat and animal skin clothes.

用狍皮制作的衣服不仅耐磨,而且能较好地御寒,特别适用于北方漫长寒冷的冬季和游猎生活。狍子是东北林区最常见的野生动物之一,其毛色和厚度会随着季节而改变,鄂伦春人就使用一年四季猎获的狍子制作服装。

The clothes made of roe deer skins are not only wear-resistant, but also can better keep out the cold. Therefore, they are especially suitable for the long cold winter in the north and the tough hunting life. Additionally, roe deer is one of the most common wild animals in the northeast forest area, and the color and thickness of its skin can change with the seasons, so the Oroqen use the roe deer skin, which they hunt all year round, to make clothes.

工艺流程 Processing Technique

狍皮服装制作工序较为复杂。首先必须将生皮鞣成熟皮。鞣皮时,将生皮涂以捣烂的狍犴,使其发酵后,将皮子顶在膝盖上,用毛丹刮去皮板上的污垢,用贺得勒反复鞣皮子,直至鞣软为止。鞣好皮子之后,就可根据需要剪缝制成各种服装。缝制用的线是狍筋线。狍皮服饰之上绣有样式不同、颜色各异的图案、花纹,具有较高的艺术欣赏价值。

The production process of roe deer skin clothing is complicated. Firstly, the rawhide must be tanned into mature leather. When tanning, the raw skin should be coated with crushed roe deer to let it ferment. Afterwards, press the skin against the knee and scraped the dirt off with a Maodan( the kind of hair brush in the Oroqen nationality). Then, use Hedele (a leather tanning tool without teeth but with a blade) to repeatedly tan the skin until it becomes soft. Finally, the skin can be cut and sewn into various garments as needed, and the thread used is roe deer sinews. The roe deer skin clothing is embroidered with different patterns and colors, which has high artistic appreciation value.

传承现状 Inheritance Status

20世纪90年代初,各级政府在鄂伦春族内施行“禁止猎业”、“禁猎转产”的政策。在维护生态平衡,拯救濒危的野生动物的同时,鄂伦春族的狍皮制作工艺也随之濒临失传。

In the early 1990s, the government implemented ban on hunting and related production. While maintaining ecological balance and saving endangered wild animals, the roe deer skin making technique of Oroqen is also on the verge of extinction.

鄂伦春民族是一个有语言、没有文字的民族,一些依靠口授的鄂伦春民族文化遗产不断消失,许多民族传统技艺濒临消亡。

The Oroqen nationality is a nation with language but no words. Therefore, some cultural heritages that rely on oral instruction are disappearing constantly, and many ethnic traditional skills are on the verge of extinction.

传承价值 Inheritance Value

狍皮制作技艺是鄂伦春族独特的传统制作技艺,它具有浓厚的民族特色和较强的地域性。打下来的狍子所剩的狍皮被鄂伦春人广泛应用于生产生活之中。鄂伦春人的狍皮生活用品主要有:狍皮被、狍皮大衣、狍皮手套、套裤、靴子、狍角帽等。

The roe deer skin processing craft is a unique traditional skill of Oroqen nationality, which has strong national and regional characteristics. The roe deer skin left is widely used in the Oroqen’s production and life. The daily necessities made of roe deer skin of Oroqen people mainly include: roe deer skin quilt, coat, gloves, trousers, boots, roe deer horn cap and so on.

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